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  1. 4 Common Dual Hose Portable Air Conditioner Problems

    September 2, 2012 by admin | Category: Educational, HelpfulComments (0)

    When it gets hot, a portable air conditioner can be a great benefit for cooling your home or room, and a dual hose portable air conditioner is a great step up from the single hose model. Despite its benefits, there are some problems associated with this type of air conditioner. Read on to learn more about these problems and how you can fix them.

    1 – What Goes in Must Come Out

    A dual hose air conditioner pulls air in to cool through one hose and exhausts warm air through another. This is fantastic if you have an open window to put the hoses through. However, one of the main reasons people get standing portable air conditioners is because they do not have access to an opening window in the room they’d like to cool. Otherwise, they might get a window unit. This leaves you with the problem of having all the hot air pumped back into the room you are trying to cool. Usually, this air is so warm it actually ends up heating the room.

    2 – Not Easily Portable

    A dual hose air conditioner is supposed to be portable from space to space, depending on which area you want to cool. While these units are designed to be portable, they are still not very lightweight, and the more power they pack for cooling, the larger the model gets. Most of them do have wheels, which makes it easy enough to move it from room to room on the same floor, but if you want to get it up stairs, you could be left wondering just how portable it really is.

    3 – Cooling Methods

    Unlike a window unit, a portable air conditioner cools an average space of about 150 square feet. This is great for a bed room, but not so good at cooling rooms like the living room or the family room. If you do manage to get it up the stairs and get the tubes out of an open window you still may find that it does little good at cooling you down while you watch TV with your family.

    4 – The Noise Factor

    All air conditioners are a bit noisy, but dual hose portable air conditioners can seem like they’re competing for the prize. Because the whole unit is inside the room, as opposed to a wall unit that rests partially in and partially out, you get all the noise of the machine in there with you. While some people can easily tune this sound out, others may find it difficult to sleep, hold a discussion or watch TV with their air conditioner roaring in their ears.

    There are a lot of things to consider before you decide on a dual hose portable air conditioner. While it can be a great way to cool you house with only one unit, there are some draw backs. Consider if the rooms you will be using it in have windows to vent it through. Consider how much you plan to move it and how big of a space you want it to cool. Make sure you know what you are getting, rather than being disappointed with your purchase.

    Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/4-common-dual-hose-portable-air-conditioner-problems#.UGFDhaTyaQY#ixzz27SPNAODB

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  2. How to Set the Weight for an HVAC Furnace

    July 19, 2012 by admin | Category: Educational, Helpful, InformationTags: , | Comments (0)

    An oil-fired HVAC furnace uses a barometric damper with adjustable weight to automatically regulate the amount of air entering the chimney while the oil burner is operating. This damper is a round or oval swinging door that normally is located in the flue pipe that connects the furnace to the chimney. An incorrectly set damper weight can lead to chimney overheating, erratic burning, soot formation, combustion puffbacks and excessive carbon monoxide formation.

    Instructions

    1. Inspect the barometric damper for correct operation. The damper should be level and plumb. The door should move freely and should be completely closed if the furnace is not operating. Start the furnace and fire it at its full rate.
    2. Insert the sensor tube of the draft gauge through a small opening in the firebox front or door while the furnace is running and take a reading over the fire. Compare the reading to the burner manufacturer’s specifications for correct draft. If the barometric damper is adjusted correctly, the draft gauge reading over the fire for a typical home oil burner generally should be between 0.02 inches of water and 0.03 inches of water.
    3. Check the damper adjustment weight on the damper door. Some damper weights screw in or out. Some weights loosen with a screwdriver and slide in or out. If the draft reading is too low, move the weight outward, toward you, to increase the draft. If the reading is too high, move the weight inward, away from you, to reduce the draft.

    Learn more at eHow 

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  3. How to Troubleshoot an HVAC Furnace

    by admin | Category: Educational, Helpful, InformationTags: , | Comments (0)

    HVAC (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) furnaces require regular troubleshooting and maintenance to ensure that your home or office maintains comfortable temperatures during those cold months. Problems that can diminish your unit’s energy output include incorrect thermostat settings, dirty or damaged filters, blocked air supply registers and tripped circuit breakers. Many of these problems can be solved quickly to improve your unit’s performance.

    Instructions

  4. Check the gas valve at the gas company meter. This meter is generally located next to the outdoor gas tank. If your valve is off, contact your gas company to have it turned on. Contact your gas company if you have run out of fuel.
  5. Check the shutoff valve at your furnace and make sure it is on. Check your thermostat’s settings and make sure it is set to “Heat” if your room is not getting warm. Adjust your thermostat’s temperature settings. Select a temperature setting that is higher than the room temperature displayed on your unit’s screen. For example, if your thermostat displays a 65 degree Fahrenheit room temperature, select at least 68 degrees.
  6. Check your gas furnace’s circuit breakers to see if they are tripped. Circuit breakers are tripped when they fall between the “On” and “Off” positions. The circuit breakers are usually located in an electrical panel next to your outdoor unit. Refer to your unit’s manual if you are unsure where your circuit breakers are located. Once you find the breakers, turn them off and then turn them back on. This resets them.
  7. Inspect the SSU switch next your your gas furnace if your unit comes with one. Turn it “On.” If your thermostat has a fan switch, turn it on.
  8. Check the filters on your outdoor unit. The task of removing filters varies with different furnaces, so refer to your unit’s manual. Brush off dirt and debris if you find any. Replace the filters if they are damaged. Some gas furnaces recommend replacing filters monthly. Refer to your manual for additional maintenance tips tailored to your unit.
  9. Inspect the air supply registers and vents and make sure objects such as furniture do not block the air supply. Make sure they are open and blowing air.
  10. Read more at eHow

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  11. How to Lift an HVAC Air Conditioning Condenser

    July 9, 2012 by admin | Category: Educational, Helpful, InformationTags: , , , | Comments (0)

    An HVAC condenser changes gas to a liquid under high pressure for cooling a building. The condenser is one of the three main components in the heating, ventilation and air conditioning system, the other two being the compressor and the evaporator. The condenser is a rectangular or L-shaped unit with coils extending in loops from one end. Follow the safety precautions when lifting the part, as the metal edges are sharp as razor blades. Recruiting a friend to help lift the component can reduce chance of injury.

    Instructions

  12. Shut off the HVAC unit at the thermostat, then cut off electricity at the fuse box or circuitbreaker.
  13. Remove the slotted bolts in the HVAC cowling, or cover, with a screwdriver. Lift the cowling off the unit and set aside.
  14. Disconnect the hoses from the side of the condenser using the adjustable wrench to loosen the nut on the end of each coupler where the hoses attach to the unit.
  15. Place a piece of duct tape over the open end of each hose to prevent dirt, which can cause mechanical problems, from getting inside.
  16. Remove the screws holding the condenser to the mounting plates inside the HVAC unit. Wear work gloves while unscrewing the hardware close to the metal edges on the unit.
  17. Lift one end of the condenser while your helper raises the opposite end to remove the part from the HVAC unit. Wear work gloves to prevent slicing your fingers and hands on the sharp edges.
  18. Read more at eHow

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  19. The Dangers of a Clogged Furnace Filter

    by admin | Category: Educational, Helpful, InformationTags: , , , | Comments (0)

    Without your house furnace, cold winter nights could be a lot worse. Because of the recent myth that furnaces are hard to keep up to date, maintenance of your furnace and the filters can accidentally be neglected. You might think that because your furnace is down deep in the basement of your house, it can’t be that important. Well it really can. There are many great reasons to go down and make sure that your house heating and filter system is kept clean and working properly.

    Getting your filter clean has many different benefits. Think about the big reason for filters. The filters first job is to clean the air of impurities from your house air. If your filter fails, because of dirt clogging, your furnace must work overtime and that is less efficient and costs you more money than usual. The more your system must work, the more gas it’s going to use and the larger your electric bill will be.

    Electrostatic filters decrease this issue since they clean dust from your air using a new technology made of static electricity. These types of of systems bring down the amount the furnace requires to work properly to get all the clean air through. This is extremely helpful to your furnace as it goes up and helps extend the life of your furnace.

    It’s just like if you have a small toothache and you ignore it, soon enough it becomes a huge problem. The identical thing can occur to you if you decide to disregard your furnace filters. If you changes the filters and correctly care for your home, the heating system will around the long haul, save you a whole lot of money and time.

    Remember that filters clogged with dirt allows dirt to go through your air system in each room of your house, At the worst, you might have exposed your family to deadly fumes that could bring a severe health risk to you. With persons spending a lot of time in their houses do you believe it’s worth it to take the risk?

    Even though it’s not likely, a neglected and backed up filter system can really catch on fire or explode in your house. Often times checking something like the furnace filters is required and can prevent fire and explosions that present a risk to your family and to all your personal belongings.

    Take out some time to make sure that the furnace system in your house is is up properly running, a lot of efficient and clean filters should be replaced often. The air in your house is the air you can control and keep clean, and you need to for the sake of your family.

    Read more at Ezine Articles

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  20. A Checklist for HVAC Preventive Maintenance

    July 1, 2012 by admin | Category: Educational, Helpful, InformationTags: , , | Comments (0)

    Here’s the checklist for HVAC preventive maintenance:

    • Inspect at least twice a year, with seasonal start-up and run inspections.
    • Seasonal PM of chillers and boilers is involved; industry practice is to have a qualified mechanical contractor provide services.
    • For cooling towers, disassemble screens and access panels for inspection; inspect the tower fill, support structure, sump and spray nozzles, fill valve, gear box, drive coupling, fan blades, and motor bearings; clean starter and cabinet; inspect wiring; check motor starter contacts for wear and proper operation; megger test the motor and log readings; and check the condition of the sump heater and contactor, and log observations.
    • Pumps usually require bearing lubrication at least annually. Inspect couplings and check for leaks. Investigate unusual noises.
    • Air-handling unit maintenance should include cleaning or replacing air filters at least quarterly, based on condition.

    Learn more at Goodway

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  21. How to Identify Each Wire for an HVAC for a Thermostat

    by admin | Category: Educational, Helpful, InformationTags: , , , | Comments (0)

    Thermostats communicate with HVAC units via low voltage control wiring. Each function of a thermostat needs an appropriate wire that will run from the thermostat to the HVAC unit. Depending on what kind of HVAC unit you have, the number of wires could range from two all the way up to eight. Two wire systems are heating only, and by adding additional functions, you add another wire for each.

    Instructions

  22. Turn off power to the HVAC unit. There will be a switch on the side of the unit that controls power to it. Turn it to the “off” position.
  23. Remove the access panel on the front of the furnace and set it aside.
  24. Look for the control board inside the furnace. It will have a terminal strip on it where the low voltage control wiring hooks up to. Terminals on the terminal strip will most likely be “R, Y, W, G and C.” If your furnace has a second stage cooling or heating, you may have “Y2 and W2.” The wires on the furnace control board will be connected up to the same labeled terminals on the thermostat.
  25. Look at and make note of which wires go to which terminals. The terminals that control the heating are “R and W.” The “R” terminal is the power terminal and usually has the red wire connected to it. The “W” terminal is the heating terminal and usually has the white wire connected to it. The terminals that control the cooling are “Y and C.” If you have air conditioning, you will notice that there are two wires connected to these that run to your outside condensing unit. There will also be a wire going from the “Y” terminal to the thermostat, and it is usually colored yellow. If your thermostat uses power from the furnace, the black wire will run from the “C” terminal to the thermostat. The “G” terminal controls the furnace blower fan which can be operated separately at the thermostat from the heating and cooling system. The wire that is usually connected to this is the green wire.
  26. Check to see if your system has the additional terminals “Y2 and W2.” These terminals exist if your furnace or air conditioner has a “second stage” of heating or cooling. What these do is allow the furnace or air conditioner to first come on with a low setting to see if it can meet the heating or cooling requirements. If after a certain time, the temperature requirement isn’t satisfied, the furnace will kick up to a higher setting to finish the heating or cooling needs. For the second stage heat, the “W2” terminal is used and this is usually connected with a brown wire from the furnace control board to the thermostat. For second stage cooling, the “Y2” terminal is used and is connected with the light blue wire from the furnace control board to the thermostat.
  27. Put the unit’s access panel back on after identifying all the thermostat wires.
  28. Turn the power back on to the HVAC unit.
  29. Learn more at eHow

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  30. How to Learn About Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning & Cooling

    by admin | Category: Educational, Helpful, InformationTags: , , , | Comments (0)

    Learning about heating, ventilation, air conditioning and cooling (HVAC) can save you money or lead to a rewarding career. HVAC training courses teach students how to install, troubleshoot, maintain and repair home and commercial heating and air conditioning systems. With training, homeowners can work on their own systems. Students willing to devote enough time to obtain certification or a degree may find employment in the industry since, according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, experts see positive job outlook for HVAC technicians.

    Instructions

  31. Check state requirements regarding licensure. Some states require HVAC workers to obtain certification. Specific requirements vary greatly. Some areas developed a test that applicants must pass, and others insist applicants gain experience through apprenticeship programs.
  32. Investigate technical schools and colleges to find an HVAC program that fits your needs. Certification programs typically take about one year to complete, while associate degrees include general education courses such as composition, laboratory science, social studies and math and so take additional time, usually another year.
  33. Contact schools to see if you can take individual classes rather than enroll in an entire program if you are just looking for information rather than professional certification. Programs with hands-on training often have limited space available.
  34. Call local HVAC employers to see if you can shadow an employee or work as an apprentice, depending upon the level of involvement you want. Apprenticeship programs may require classroom work in addition to field training.
  35. Apply for the program or classes. You will need to fill out forms to indicate your resident status. If you enter a degree program, you will have to take a basic skills exam.
  36. Read the program’s requirements carefully. Note the deadlines for withdrawing (if you discover the program isn’t what you wanted), when coursework needs to be completed and the procedures for graduation.
  37. For more information, visit eHow

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  38. How to Read HVAC Wiring Diagrams

    by admin | Category: Educational, Helpful, InformationTags: , , | Comments (0)

    If you are unfamiliar with the process of reading HVAC, or heating, ventilation, and air conditioning wiring diagrams, then fixing your own furnace may seem like trying to read Greek or Egyptian without some kind of translator. However, if you learn a few basic symbols and terms, you will be able to read HVAC wiring diagrams fairly easily. One important thing to understand is that the wiring diagrams have their own special symbolism that covers each specific part in the system, as well as a color coding that may or may not be the same depending on the year or model of the furnace that you have.

    Instructions

  39. Review the symbols used by the company whose furnace you are fixing. Each company may have their own specific symbols and terms for things. For example, some companies may call an electronic part a transformer, and others will call the same part a starter. Whatever company you are working on, they will have a key or other symbol diagram in place, usually printed on the wiring diagram itself. Check this for manufacturer specific codes and names for things.
  40. Follow the color coding. Most manufacturers use color-coded wires to help narrow down problem spots. Along with the key that shows the manufacturer specific symbols and terminology, your HVAC wiring diagram should also have a color-coded key at the bottom that will tell you that the purple wire powers the inducer motor or that the red wire goes to the thermostat. While there are some standards, most companies have their own color coding. A shop manual may come in handy here.
  41. Follow the flow of electricity. Electrical flow is shown in wiring diagrams by an arrow that is superimposed on top of the wire. If the arrow is pointing in one direction, electricity flows from a starting point on one side of the arrow to an ending point on the other side and does not reverse itself. This way you can track where the electricity stops flowing to determine the problem.
  42. Use an electrical multi meter to verify diagram accuracy. If a resistor is shown in the wiring diagram and specified to have 1 to 3 ohms of resistance, you will want to check this with your multi tool to make sure that the part itself is in spec.
  43. Read more at eHow 

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  44. How to Fill Your Air Conditioning System with Freon

    by admin | Category: Educational, Helpful, InformationTags: , , | Comments (0)

    How to Recharge Air Conditioning System with Freon

    Many consumers have attempted to refill their vehicle A/C systems with recharge kits purchased at local auto parts stores. These kits are successful only about 50% of the time. There are several reasons these home repairs fail or are ineffective:

    1. The system needs to be at a lower pressure than the Freon source in order to accept the charge. If it is not, the Freon will escape when the line is disconnected resulting in a serious ecological hazard.
    2. The A/C system cannot compress air, only a liquefiable gas such as Freon. Air in the system will prevent the acceptance of the Freon. Running an A/C system containing air will not cool and create a high-pressure condition damaging the system
    3. If there is a leak in the system all the Freon pumped in will leak out again.
    4. The home repair kits do not measure the Freon contained in the system. It is critical to fill according to the manufacturer’s specification. Over charging will cause leaks, damage components, blow out seals and gaskets resulting in system failure. Under charging may cause over cycling of the compressor damaging bearings.
    5. Converting the fluid ounces to PSI can be complicated and a challenge for many home mechanics.
    6. The Freon level may be fine and the problem could be electrical or due to a faulty sensor.

    Recharge or refill you air conditioning at home

    Professional Fleet Services has all of the diagnostic equipment to distinguish between a mechanical or electrical failure and a low Freon condition. In addition, they will add a dye to the Freon showing where a leak occurs if one exists. They will also evacuate the system before filling then refill according to the manufacture specifications. They are also EPA monitored to safely handle the A/C refrigerant.

    If you are still determined to maintain your system at home, execute the following steps carefully:

    1. You will need manifold gauges, vacuum pump and Freon.
    2. nstall the A/C manifold gauges on the vehicle and connect the yellow hose to the vacuum pump.
    3. Connect the blue hose to the low side and red hose to the high side.
    4. Vacuum down the system to -30 PSI.
    5. Allow to pump down for 10-15 minutes.
    6. Shut off pump and allow system to sit for 15 minutes while monitoring for leaks (indicated by pressure approaching 0)
    7. If no leaks, close valve on the yellow hose, detach from the vacuum pump and install on the Freon source.
    8. Fill according to vehicle specifications indicated on label under the hood. Average system requires 1.5-2 lbs. of Freon.
    9. Close off all valves, remove hoses and gauges from the vehicle.

    For more information, visit Professional Fleet Services

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